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Xinguo  |  SKU: XING_ASHYK_GY240_1

XINGUO Aogami Super Honyaki Gyuto 240mm Marble Ferrule Amboyna Burl Handle with Saya

Regular price $1,799.95

IMPORTANT: Carbon steel knives can rust or patina quickly if not cared for properly. They require regular cleaning, drying, and oiling. If you are unfamiliar with carbon steel maintenance, we recommend choosing a stainless steel option instead.

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Availability

  • St Peters, NSW —
    2 Bishop St, Unit 2, St Peters NSW 2044
  • Crows Nest, NSW —
    107 West St, Shop 1, Crows Nest NSW 2065
    Pickup only
  • Prahran, VIC —
    180 Commercial Road, Shop 1, Prahran VIC 3181
    Pickup only
Detailed Specifications
Line Xinguo Blue Super Mizu Honyaki
Profile Gyuto / Chef's knife
Bevel Type Double Bevel
Weight 238 g | 8.4 oz
Edge Length 247 mm | 9 23/32″
Heel Height 55 mm | 2 11/64″
Width @ Heel 3.8 mm | 5/32″
Width @ Mid 2.4 mm | 3/32″
Width @ 1cm from Tip 0.8 mm | 1/32″
Steel Blue Super / Aogami Super | Carbon
Blade Construction Honyaki
Hardness (HRC) 62 - 65
Surface Finish Mirror Polish
Handle Heart-shaped Ironwood Handle with Blonde Ferrule
Region Shanghai
Best for
  • Pro chefs
  • Enthusiasts
  • Collectors
  • Free shipping for knives over AU$200 Australia wide.
  • World-wide shipping via DHL Express, 3 to 5 days.


Xinguo’s Honyaki are special items in many ways, the look, the steel and even the maker and region of production. These blades are truly remarkable to look at, and I don’t want that statement to overshadow the performance of them. It is the first item from Xinguo’s team that we have brought in and I think as a complete package, this Blue Super Honyaki really stands up to this studio’s motto: Pursuit beyond high proficiency in forging and polishing, but seek strong expression in different products.

The elephant in the room is, these are Mizu Honyaki Blue Super blades. The Blue Super Honyaki are already pretty hard to find due to the difficulty and high failure rate, but Xinguo pushes this even further by performing a water quench rather than a safer and perfectly viable oil quench. This brings the steel to its highest achievable hardness of 64-65 HRC, and allows a very thin and fine edge to be put onto them. Combining with a quite well controlled convex grind, the cutting performance can go toe to toe with some of the Japanese counterparts that produce similar knives.

The appearance would be a totally different story, and I think Xinguo has achieved their goal of seeking strong expression with this knife. This surface of the knife is entirely covered by very strong alloy banding, and the fine glitter-like patterns has such a strong texture that makes me think of the legendary Wooz steel. This alloy banding is a phenomenon commonly found on alloy carbon steel especially those with a lot of Tungsten, but this is not common especially like this one with strong contrast. To intensify this look, the blade is etched to increase the contrast. The harmon turns to a light grey colour with brighter banding over it, but the hardened steel shows a mesmerising blue sheen, which looks breathtaking when paired with the mirror polishing and the white banding floating over it.

When having a single light source shined onto the blade, it can present different look at different angles, in some angle, the blade would appears as a typical Honyaki with hazy hamon and dark polished hardened steel, i you keep turning it, the hamon will start to pick up a golden sheen and reveal its second layer, then at certain angle, the allow banding will suddenly show up, drizzle the entire blade with texture. This is a very complicated knife that you can spend hours looking at it, and it just feels more impressive when you realise all of these are achieved by specific techniques applied to a monosteel blade.

The knife takes a more Sakai style profile, but made a bit wider than typical, although Honyaki tend to be some of the more “collector items” this board blade with a pretty thin edge would still be happy to chop through whatever you feed to it. For head chefs and collectors, this line offers a reasonable option for you to experience Honyaki Ownership, but I say the price speaks very little about how well these blades are made, whether in terms of fit and finish, craftsmanship or overall design and aesthetics.

Pros Cons
  • Excellent performance
  • Great artistic
  • Excellent fit and finish
  • High budget
  • Prone to rust
Care Instruction
  1. Don't cut hard things! Japanese knives are brittle so bone hacking is a NO NO!
  2. Wash with neutral detergent after use, and wipe dry;
  3. Please don't wash knife with dishwasher, it will damage the wood handle;
  4. Be careful not to leave the knife close to a heat source for a long time;
  5. It is a lot more dangerous to cut with a blunt knife than a sharp knife!
  6. It is best to sharpen a Japanese knife regularly on a waterstone.
  7. Oil the (carbon) knife if storing for an extended period of time to prevent rust.

Xinguo

Xinguo, a knife workshop team near Shanghai

Xinguo (新國) is a small Chinese knife workshop team based near Shanghai, not a single maker. Xinguo says it founded the brand in 2016 and that a master craftsman leads its team of partners and apprentices. It says it forges water-quenched honyaki by the clay method (tsuchioki) as well as Western-style chef knives, and works with Shirogami, Aogami and Ginsan from Japan, MagnaCut and ApexUltra from the US, and RWL34 from Sweden. The team says it is still new to making knives and that support from knife enthusiasts motivates it to keep improving.

Xinguo began as a small group of hobbyist knifemakers who also repaired high-end Japanese knives, and in 2022 it set up its factory and moved into full-scale production. In that factory we saw a large contact wheel, custom-made to match a Japanese grinding stone, that the team uses to repair the hollow of single-bevel knives. The team also makes its own abrasives to give its knives a consistent finish, and its own diamond stone for the high-alloy powder steels it grinds.

Because Kisuke Manaka works alone and his output is limited, we asked Xinguo to sharpen and polish his blades. That arrangement produced the Kisuke x Xinguo line, which carries both names.

We list the Kisuke x Xinguo Blue 1 Damascus gyuto, the Aogami Super honyaki gyuto, the ApexUltra honyaki gyuto, and the Ginsan tsuchime honesuki with a guard.

“A Chinese knife workshop team near Shanghai.”

Est. 2016
Known for Xinguo says it forges water-quenched honyaki. We list the Kisuke x Xinguo line.
Read more about Xinguo

Xinguo · Shanghai

Knife details

Frequently asked questions

Gyuto or santoku: which should I choose?

The gyuto came to Japan with the beef-eating culture of the Meiji era, and that is where its name comes from. Tojiro says it is used for all kinds of cooking, which is why it is also called the chef's knife.

The santoku is a household knife that combines the good points of the nakiri and the gyuto. Tojiro describes it as all-purpose, from vegetables to meat and fish, double-bevel and built on the same construction as a Western knife.

Choose a gyuto if you want more length and reach. Choose a santoku if you want a shorter all-purpose knife. Tojiro's own size figures: gyuto 150 to 210mm for household use and up to 360mm for professional use, santoku 165 to 170mm for household use.

What is a gyuto knife used for?

The gyuto (牛刀) is a chef's knife for all kinds of cooking, and it is basically double-bevel. A knife maker's guide says it came to Japan in the Meiji era with the culture of eating beef, which gave it its name, but it does not cut only meat.

A Japanese dictionary describes the gyuto as slimmer than a santoku, with a pointed tip, used widely for meat, fish and vegetables.

What gyuto length should I choose?

A knife maker's guide lists 150 to 210 mm, double-bevel, for home use, and 180 to 360 mm, single- or double-bevel, for professional kitchens.

We suggest starting with a 210 mm gyuto for a home kitchen, and stepping up to 240 mm if you regularly cut large pieces and have the board for it.

240mm vs 210mm gyuto: which size should I choose?

Get the 210mm. We only point people to a 240mm when they have about 45cm of usable board, cook in volume, and regularly break down big roasts or whole fish.

On the gyutos we've measured for our product pages, the extra length is real. As of October 2026, the 210mm gyutos we list have a median edge of 213mm from heel to tip, across the 111 we have measured; the 240mm ones have a median of 240mm, across 100. The 240s are also heavier, 212g against 175g at the median, and a touch taller at the heel, 50mm against 48mm, across the same 100 and 111 knives.

Weight overlaps between the two sizes. As of October 2026, 11 of the 100 measured 240s weigh less than the median 210 at 175g. The 240s we measured weigh 146 to 323g, and the 111 measured 210s 121 to 255g. The number in the name does not decide how heavy a knife is, so check the measured weight on the product page.

Japanese or German kitchen knives: which should I buy?

Our advice: choose a Japanese knife if you want the keenest edge and do not mind caring for a harder blade, and a German knife if you want a tougher, more forgiving knife you can hone casually and use for heavy prep. On two Japanese knife steels, the steel makers' own figures start at 60 HRC: Takefu Special Steel rates VG10 at 60 HRC or more, and Proterial lists the hardening hardness of Aogami 2 (Blue 2) as over 60 HRC.

Our care advice for a Japanese knife: keep it off bone, frozen food and very hard squash, and use a wooden or plastic board.

What is the flat spot on a knife, and is it the same as the "sweet spot"?

The flat spot is the straight run of edge from the heel towards the middle, the part that meets the board along its length. At our counter we call it the sweet spot; elsewhere "sweet spot" often means the balance point, so ask which one someone means.

Past the flat, the edge curves up towards the tip (the belly), which suits a swinging or pulling stroke. Sharpeners also say "flat spot" for a worn patch of edge, so when you mean the shape, "the flat part of the edge" is clearer.

Will a carbon steel knife rust, and how do I look after it?

Yes, carbon steels such as Aogami (Blue) and Shirogami (White) are not stainless steels, so left wet they can spot or rust.

Care is simple once it becomes habit. Wipe the blade as you go, especially after acidic food like citrus, tomato or onion. When you finish, wash it in warm water with a little soap and dry it straight away with a towel. Do not let it air dry, leave it in the sink or the dish rack, or put it in the dishwasher. Store it dry: on a magnetic strip, in a saya or in a block in a dry spot.

If the knife will sit unused for a while, wipe on a thin layer of oil before storing. In our video James shows that mineral oil can stand in for camellia (tsubaki) oil, and he picks one labelled medical grade; we list the Kitchen Knife / Cutting Board Mineral Oil Medical Grade for this. If you find light rust, lift it with a rust eraser and a little water, then dry and oil the blade; we list the CKK and Naniwa rust erasers.

What is Aogami Super (Blue Super) steel?

Aogami Super, also called Blue Super, is a knife steel made by Proterial. Proterial describes it as an alloy steel with tungsten, chromium and vanadium, to improve heat-treatment properties and wear resistance. Its own figures put carbon at 1.40 to 1.50%, tungsten at 2.00 to 2.50%, vanadium at 0.30 to 0.50% and chromium at 0.30 to 0.50%.

Proterial gives it a hardening hardness of 60 HRC or more. The uses it lists for the grade are high quality planes, other tipped tools, kitchen knives and sickles. Proterial's hardening note calls for quenching in water, with oil as the alternative.

With chromium well under the 10.5% the Japan Stainless Steel Association sets for stainless, it is not a stainless steel. Wipe it dry after use, do not leave it wet or in the sink, and do not leave acidic food on it.

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