PRAHRAN STORE NOW OPEN · THU–MON · 10AM–6PM

Drag to spin · pinch or scroll to zoom

Shiro Kamo  |  SKU: KAMO_SUSGDA_GY240

Shiro Kamo Suminagashi SG2 Damascus Gyuto 240mm, Stabilized Curly Maple Handle

Regular price $499.95

Sold out right now

Leave your email and we’ll send one message the moment it’s back in stock.

One email, no marketing. Privacy policy.

Availability

  • St Peters, NSW —
    2 Bishop St, Unit 2, St Peters NSW 2044
  • Crows Nest, NSW —
    107 West St, Shop 1, Crows Nest NSW 2065
    Pickup only
  • Prahran, VIC —
    180 Commercial Road, Shop 1, Prahran VIC 3181
    Pickup only
Detailed Specifications
Line Shiro Kamo Suminagashi SG2 Damascus
Profile Gyuto / Chef's knife
Weight 202 g | 7.1 oz
Edge Length 245 mm | 9 41/64″
Heel Height 55 mm | 2 11/64″
Width @ Heel 2.4 mm | 3/32″
Width @ Mid 1.7 mm | 1/16″
Width @ 1cm from Tip 0.8 mm | 1/32″
Steel SG2 / R2 | Powdered | Stainless
Blade Construction Sanmai - Stainless Damascus Clad
Hardness (HRC) 62 - 64
Surface Finish Migaki
Handle Curly Maple with S/S Ferrule- Blue
Region Echizen
Best for
  • Pro chefs
  • Enthusiasts
  • Free shipping for knives over AU$200 Australia wide.
  • World-wide shipping via DHL Express, 3 to 5 days.


Shiro Kamo's Suminagashi SG2 Damascus is one of those lines where the appearance is elegant, but the cutting performance is still very much the main event. The polished Damascus has a clean and refined character, with the flowing Suminagashi layers appearing naturally across the blade as the light moves over the polished surface. It suits Kamo-san's knives particularly well because underneath the decoration is an extremely thin, purposeful blade.

At the core is SG2 / R2 powder stainless steel, hardened to around 62–64 HRC and clad in stainless Damascus. SG2 gives the line excellent edge retention and corrosion resistance, but what impresses me more is how Shiro Kamo handles the material. Powder stainless steel is considerably harder to forge than traditional carbon steel, yet he manages to keep these blades remarkably thin and straight.

The grind is very much on the laser side. The blade is kept thin through the body and especially thin behind the edge, with just a small amount of convexity to keep the cutting feel smooth. Dense ingredients such as carrots, potatoes and onions offer very little resistance, and the knife tends to fall through food rather than force its way through. This is the kind of geometry that makes the performance immediately noticeable from the first cut.

Another defining feature of this line is the profile. Compared with many conventional Japanese knives of the same category, the Suminagashi series tends to run larger and noticeably taller, giving the blade more presence on the cutting board and generous knuckle clearance. The extra height is particularly useful for vegetable preparation and gives plenty of blade surface for moving chopped ingredients around the board. Despite the larger profile, the laser-like grind keeps the knife feeling light and agile rather than bulky.

The polished Damascus is also an important part of the character of this particular line. Rather than creating strong black-and-silver contrast through etching, the Suminagashi pattern is presented in a brighter and more natural way. The layers remain clearly visible without overpowering the shape of the blade, giving the knife a more restrained and refined appearance than Kamo-san's darker Kurokumo series.

There is, however, a trade-off to this level of thinness. These are not knives for twisting through food, chopping bones, frozen ingredients or making contact with anything hard. The very fine edge and laser geometry reward controlled cutting technique, but they also need more care than a thicker all-purpose knife. Used properly, though, that delicate geometry is exactly what gives the Suminagashi line its effortless cutting feel.

The line brings together many of the things Shiro Kamo does particularly well: hand-forged powder steel, an extremely thin laser grind, a larger and taller blade profile, and a light yet rigid construction. If cutting performance is the priority but you also enjoy a more substantial profile and polished Damascus finish, this is one of the more distinctive combinations in his range.

Pros Cons
  • Thin behind the edge
  • Great OOTB
  • A little bit brittle
Care Instruction
  1. Don't cut hard things! Japanese knives are brittle so bone hacking is a NO NO!
  2. Wash with neutral detergent after use, and wipe dry;
  3. Please don't wash knife with dishwasher, it will damage the wood handle;
  4. Be careful not to leave the knife close to a heat source for a long time;
  5. It is a lot more dangerous to cut with a blunt knife than a sharp knife!
  6. It is best to sharpen a Japanese knife regularly on a waterstone.

Shiro Kamo

Shiro Kamo — Echizen's Forging Purist

Shiro Kamo, the second generation blade smith of the Kamotou Hamono, is an expert of forging. He only keep feel designs but they are tuned to near perfect. Kamo san's knife is known for the broad profile and extreme thin bevel, paired with high hardness SG2 and Blue Super steel, his blades cut well, especially on hard and dense vegetables.

It is worth mentioning Kamo san do forge stainless and carbon steel alike, while the SG2 is much hard to deform under forging temperature, he seems to be able to command steel into his desired shape with little effort. His understanding and experience in forging and sharpening lead to incredibly well polished designs, which excels in handling, lightness and cutting smoothness.

Read more

Shiro Kamo, the second generation blade smith of the Kamotou Hamono, is an expert of forging extremely high performance blades. He is a member of the TAKEFU Knife Village.

The most known work done by Shiro Kamo is his SG2 Suminagashi series. As one of the few blacksmith in this industry that does hand forging of powder stainless steel, his knife is the thinnest I've ever seen. As stainless steel tend to be much harder to shape at forging temperature, it just says how impressive of a skill that Kamo san possess being about to keep his knife so thin but straight at the same time.

The matching sharpening is also very aggressive, his SG2 has a small convexity but due to the low overall thickness and broad knife profile,the edges are still very thin. The Kurouchi Blue super has a concave grind which goes through tough food with little effort with its extreme thinness. However, these thin blade are still pretty rigid, thanks to the forged taper that thickens the tang. The combination of these features just shows how much understanding that Kamo san has to blade, and he do have the skill to achieve these details with his hammer like it takes no effort.

We found that Shiro Kamo has only few designs that he forge, and that is somewhat remarkable to me. When we are constantly seeking the shiny new things that just come out, we can always count on Kamo san when we need a knife with solid performance. His dedication and focus have lead to a near perfection of what he do, and anyone who picked up his knife and tried will feel the result of years of tuning over one design. If you want a authentically forged knife from Japan, I will definitely check out master Kamo's knives.

“Former chairman of Takefu Knife Village — an Echizen forging master who keeps only a few perfect designs.”

Est. 1955 | 昭和30年
Known for Expert forging, broad profile geometry, few but refined designs
Instagram @shiro_kamo Read more about Shiro Kamo

Shiro Kamo · Echizen

Knife details

Frequently asked questions

Gyuto or santoku - which should I choose?

Both are all-purpose Japanese knives, and for most home cooks either will handle the bulk of daily prep. The choice comes down to length, blade shape, and how you like to cut.

A gyuto is the Japanese chef's knife - typically 210 to 240mm with a gently curved edge that lets you rock and slide through cuts as well as chop. The extra length and pointed tip give you reach and versatility, from proteins to large produce.

A santoku is shorter, usually 165 to 180mm, with a flatter profile and a rounded sheep's-foot tip. It rewards a straight up-and-down push cut, feels nimble in smaller hands or tight kitchens, and is the classic Japanese household knife.

Rule of thumb: choose a gyuto if you want one do-everything knife with more reach, or a santoku if you prefer a compact, easy-to-control blade. Plenty of our customers end up owning both.

What is a Gyuto, and what is it used for?

A gyuto is the Japanese chef's knife — a double-bevel general-purpose kitchen knife. The name literally means "beef sword," and it's still a fair job description: you use it to slice meat, chop vegetables, dice aromatics, and break down fish. If you own one good knife, this is the shape it should be.

Versus a typical Western chef's knife, a gyuto is thinner behind the edge, sharpened to a keener angle (roughly 15–18° rather than 20–22°), and usually made from harder steel — often above 60 HRC. That's what makes it slice so cleanly: less crushing, less tearing. The trade-off is a more brittle edge, so it asks to be honed and sharpened more attentively than a soft Western blade.

Blades run from compact 150mm to long 240mm, but for a home kitchen I'd start at 210mm — my sizing FAQ explains why.

What size gyuto should I buy?

In a home kitchen I'd pick a 210mm gyuto. It's the sweet spot: long enough for a full slicing stroke, short enough to stay nimble on a normal cutting board and easy to control while you're still building your technique.

Step up to a 240mm only if you regularly break down large cuts — roasts, whole fish, big vegetable prep. The extra length means longer strokes and fewer passes, but it also means more weight and a bigger board; if the tip is hanging off your bench you're fighting the knife, not cooking with it. If you're mainly doing vegetables and portions, the 240 gives you nothing you'll use.

For a first gyuto, buy a well-made stainless one around 210mm in the low hundreds. Traditional carbon steels (white and blue paper steel) cut and sharpen beautifully, but they rust if you leave them wet — learn one variable at a time. Better steel is step two.

240mm vs 210mm gyuto: which size should I choose?

Get the 210mm. We only point people to a 240mm when they have about 45cm of usable board, cook in volume, and regularly break down big roasts or whole fish.

On the gyutos we've measured for our product pages, the extra length is real. The 210s have a median edge of 213mm from heel to tip and the 240s 240mm. The 240s are also heavier, 195g against 163g at the median, and a touch taller at the heel, 51mm against 48mm. End to end a 240 runs about 39cm and a 210 about 36cm.

That length buys you a longer stroke. A 240 goes through a big piece of meat in one or two pulls and moves a board of chopped vegetables with less shuffling. It costs you board space and control. On a small board the tip hangs off the edge, and fine work like herbs and shallots feels like more knife than the job needs.

Japanese vs German kitchen knives — which should I buy?

If you want the sharpest possible edge and don't mind caring for a harder, more brittle blade, buy Japanese; if you want a tougher, more forgiving knife that can take abuse and be honed casually, buy German. Japanese knives, like the gyuto, are ground to a much sharper edge angle, typically 15 to 18 degrees compared to 20 to 22 degrees on a western chef's knife, and use harder steel that can exceed 60 HRC, which is why they cut with such precision but also chip more easily. German knives are softer and more ductile, so they resist chipping and bend rather than break, but they won't hold that razor-sharp edge as long.

A Japanese knife is not the right choice if you regularly cut through bones, frozen food, or hard squash, or if you're used to rocking the blade hard on a cutting board, that lateral stress and impact can chip the edge. German knives are the better everyday beater for heavy prep, but you'll trade away the effortless slicing and fine edge retention that make Japanese steel so satisfying.

The gyuto, literally "beef knife," is the Japanese take on a French chef's knife, with a flatter profile that suits push-cutting and slicing. That acute blade geometry is only possible because of the harder steel used, a typical western knife at 20 to 22 degrees would roll or dull quickly at 15 to 18 degrees, whereas the harder Japanese steel holds that finer edge. That's the core trade-off: hardness buys sharpness and edge retention, but it also makes the blade more brittle, so you need a gentler technique and a wooden or plastic board. For more on how these knives are built and what to look for, see the Knives and Stones Education Centre.

SG2 steel knives at Knives and Stones

SG2 is my go-to recommendation for anyone who wants a stainless knife that performs like carbon steel without the fuss. At 1.25% carbon and HRC 62-64, it takes a screaming edge and holds it far longer than VG-10 or AEB-L, all while being fully rust-resistant. You get the best of both worlds: no patina worry, but real cutting performance.

SG2 vs AS steel for kitchen knives — which is better?

Neither is objectively better, it just depends on whether you value stainless convenience or a laser-sharp carbon edge. Go with SG2 if you want a knife that holds a screaming edge without any babysitting. Choose AS if you are chasing the thinnest possible edge and don't mind wiping the blade down after every use.

SG2 is a powdered stainless steel from Takefu, usually sitting around 62-64 HRC. It is tough and resists corrosion, which is why I reach for it when working with acidic foods. Aogami Super is high carbon and typically harder at 64-66 HRC. It sharpens to a hair-whittling edge that lasts slightly longer than SG2, but it will rust if you neglect it.

R2 steel vs SG2 — are they the same?

Yes, R2 and SG2 are the same steel — R2 is the name used by Kobelco Steel, and SG2 (Super Gold 2) is the name used by Takefu Special Steel for the identical powdered metallurgy formula. SG2 / R2 is a powder (PM) steel from Takefu Special Steel, Japan, with a composition of 1.25% carbon, 14.0% chromium, 1.8% vanadium, 2.3% molybdenum, and a hardness range of 62–64 HRC. So if you see a knife labeled R2 or SG2, you are getting the exact same material.

You May Also Like