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Naoto  |  SKU: NAOTO_B1KUDM_ST180

Naoto Blue 1 Damascus Kurouchi Santoku 180mm

Regular price $349.95

IMPORTANT: Carbon steel knives can rust or patina quickly if not cared for properly. They require regular cleaning, drying, and oiling. If you are unfamiliar with carbon steel maintenance, we recommend choosing a stainless steel option instead.

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Availability

  • St Peters, NSW —
    2 Bishop St, Unit 2, St Peters NSW 2044
  • Crows Nest, NSW —
    107 West St, Shop 1, Crows Nest NSW 2065
    Pickup only
  • Prahran, VIC —
    180 Commercial Road, Shop 1, Prahran VIC 3181
    Pickup only
Detailed Specifications
Line Naoto Blue 1 Damascus Kurouchi
Profile Santoku / Santoku
Bevel Type Double Bevel
Weight 153 g | 5.4 oz
Edge Length 180 mm | 7 3/32″
Heel Height 45 mm | 1 49/64″
Width @ Heel 4.1 mm | 5/32″
Width @ Mid 2.1 mm | 5/64″
Width @ 1cm from Tip 0.8 mm | 1/32″
Steel Blue 1 / Aogami #1 | Carbon
Blade Construction Sanmai - Soft Iron Damascus Clad
Hardness (HRC) 61 - 64
Surface Finish Kurouchi
Handle Octagonal Ebony Blonde Horn
Region Tosa
Best for
  • Enthusiasts
  • Pro chefs
  • Free shipping for knives over AU$200 Australia wide.
  • World-wide shipping via DHL Express, 3 to 5 days.


Naoto Kitaoka is a Tosa-based maker, and this Blue 1 Damascus Kurouchi line carries the regional character you'd expect — hand forged with a thick neck that tapers noticeably toward the tip, giving the knife a stiffness and control near the handle while keeping the front of the blade light and responsive. It's a handling profile that Tosa forging does particularly well, and Naoto executes it cleanly here.

The Damascus cladding has an interesting story behind it. Rather than a fully hand-laminated billet, this line starts from a pre-laminated Damascus — but the hand forging process leaves its mark on the pattern, distorting the layers near the cladding line into a continuous swirling shape. The result sits between the uniformity of a purely machine-laminated Damascus and the full dynamism of an entirely hand-forged one — it has movement and character without being chaotic, and the Kurouchi finish over it keeps the aesthetic grounded and honest. The iron Damascus cladding means the entire blade requires regular maintenance to prevent rust, which is the standard commitment for any carbon steel knife of this construction.

The core steel is Blue 1 (Aogami 1), a high carbon steel that sits above Blue 2 in wear resistance and produces a very sharp, aggressive edge. The grind is concave with a spine that sits slightly on the thicker side — not a laser by any measure, but the edge is kept genuinely thin and the concave geometry brings it down cleanly. Food penetration is decent and the Shinogi line handles food release reliably on ingredients with enough height to reach it. It's a well-balanced geometry that prioritises longevity and versatility over outright thinness.

The fit and finish stands out for a Tosa-made knife at this price — the polish is refined, the choil and spine are well treated, and the overall execution matches the asking price without any obvious shortcuts. For enthusiasts and professional chefs who want a hand forged carbon steel knife with genuine character and honest performance, this is a strong option in the Tosa lineup.

Pros Cons
  • Thin behind the edge
  • Great artistic
  • Prone to rust
Care Instruction
  1. Don't cut hard things! Japanese knives are brittle so bone hacking is a NO NO!
  2. Wash with neutral detergent after use, and wipe dry;
  3. Please don't wash knife with dishwasher, it will damage the wood handle;
  4. Be careful not to leave the knife close to a heat source for a long time;
  5. It is a lot more dangerous to cut with a blunt knife than a sharp knife!
  6. It is best to sharpen a Japanese knife regularly on a waterstone.
  7. Oil the (carbon) knife if storing for an extended period of time to prevent rust.

Naoto Kitaoka

Naoto Kitaoka is an experienced blacksmith that has been making knife for over a decade. 20 years of blacksmithing alongside his grandfather, a blacksmith specialise in single bevel and sickle forging, shaped an excellent control over red hot steels. Naoto's experience reflect in his knives: a variety of hand forged blades that have a clean, uniform finish that stands out in knives of similar designs.

Read more

Naoto Kitaoka (北岡直斗) forges in Kochi. We stock his Blue 1 Kuro Dama bunka and santoku, both 180 mm.

Read more about Naoto Kitaoka

Naoto Kitaoka · Tosa

Knife details

Frequently asked questions

Gyuto or santoku: which should I choose?

The gyuto came to Japan with the beef-eating culture of the Meiji era, and that is where its name comes from. Tojiro says it is used for all kinds of cooking, which is why it is also called the chef's knife.

The santoku is a household knife that combines the good points of the nakiri and the gyuto. Tojiro describes it as all-purpose, from vegetables to meat and fish, double-bevel and built on the same construction as a Western knife.

Choose a gyuto if you want more length and reach. Choose a santoku if you want a shorter all-purpose knife. Tojiro's own size figures: gyuto 150 to 210mm for household use and up to 360mm for professional use, santoku 165 to 170mm for household use.

Rock chop or up-and-down chop: which knife shape suits me?

Match the shape to your stroke. Rock chopping keeps the tip on the board and rolls the curved belly through the food, so a gyuto or a Western chef's knife suits it, and Japanese knives rock fine as long as you rock gently.

Up-and-down chopping, the Chinese style, wants a straight run of edge, so a nakiri, usuba, santoku or bunka suits it better; a curved edge chopped straight down easily leaves pieces joined. Neither shape is better; it depends on how you cut.

What does santoku mean?

A Japanese dictionary explains the name of the santoku (三徳包丁) as coming from the three things it handles: meat, fish and vegetables. The same dictionary entry points from the santoku to the bunka (文化包丁), treating the two as one knife.

One Japanese knife maker guide distinguishes the two by the tip. It says that in the Showa era the bunka was made with its tip cut at an angle, and the santoku came after it by rounding that tip.

Will a carbon steel knife rust, and how do I look after it?

Yes, carbon steels such as Aogami (Blue) and Shirogami (White) are not stainless steels, so left wet they can spot or rust.

Care is simple once it becomes habit. Wipe the blade as you go, especially after acidic food like citrus, tomato or onion. When you finish, wash it in warm water with a little soap and dry it straight away with a towel. Do not let it air dry, leave it in the sink or the dish rack, or put it in the dishwasher. Store it dry: on a magnetic strip, in a saya or in a block in a dry spot.

If the knife will sit unused for a while, wipe on a thin layer of oil before storing. In our video James shows that mineral oil can stand in for camellia (tsubaki) oil, and he picks one labelled medical grade; we list the Kitchen Knife / Cutting Board Mineral Oil Medical Grade for this. If you find light rust, lift it with a rust eraser and a little water, then dry and oil the blade; we list the CKK and Naniwa rust erasers.

What is the difference between Blue 1 and Blue 2?

Proterial, which makes both, describes each the same way: an alloy steel with tungsten and chromium added to improve heat-treatment properties and wear resistance, hardening to over 60 HRC.

Its figures give Blue 1 (青紙1号) more carbon and tungsten, 1.25 to 1.35% carbon and 1.50 to 2.00% tungsten against Blue 2's 1.05 to 1.15% and 1.00 to 1.50%, with chromium of 0.30 to 0.50% against 0.20 to 0.50%.

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