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Hatsukokoro  |  SKU: HT-YROSLDKURO-GY210BR

Hatsukokoro x Nigara Yorokobi Special SLD Gyuto 210mm Kurouchi Damascus Birch Handle

Regular price $999.95

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Availability

  • St Peters, NSW —
    2 Bishop St, Unit 2, St Peters NSW 2044
  • Crows Nest, NSW —
    107 West St, Shop 1, Crows Nest NSW 2065
    Pickup only
  • Prahran, VIC —
    180 Commercial Road, Shop 1, Prahran VIC 3181
    Pickup only
Detailed Specifications
Line Hatsukokoro x Nigara SLD Yorokobi Special
Profile Gyuto / Chef's knife
Bevel Type Double Bevel
Weight 188 g | 6.6 oz
Edge Length 201 mm | 7 29/32″
Heel Height 50 mm | 1 31/32″
Width @ Heel 2.7 mm | 7/64″
Width @ Mid 2.6 mm | 7/64″
Width @ 1cm from Tip 1.0 mm | 3/64″
Steel SLD | Semi-stainless
Blade Construction Sanmai - Stainless Damascus Clad
Hardness (HRC) 62 - 64
Surface Finish Kurouchi
Handle Octagonal Birch Burl with Spacer
Region Aomori
Best for
  • Pro chefs
  • Enthusiasts
  • Free shipping for knives over AU$200 Australia wide.
  • World-wide shipping via DHL Express, 3 to 5 days.


It is known for a many that Hatsukokoro have been working closely with Nigara to orchestrate some product lines that are both good in performance and pleasing in appearance. I thought after seeing the Yorokobi(喜び) SLD Copper Damascus, the Ginsan Kurozome Nashiji Damascus and the Ryusui(流水) Blue 2 Nashiji Damascus line, there won't be much that they can do to surprise me. Yet when I pulled these dense blades out of the protective sleeves, the high-constrast pattern above the Shinogi line and the way light reflecting off the wide bevel suggests that this line will be another higher end line with beauty and performance by Nigara.

The eye-catching Damascus pattern layed over the Kurouchi finish is probably the most eye-catching feature that grabbed your attention. Unlike most of the Kurouchi finish we see, the oxidation layer on these knives are very dark, It is likely achieved by etching like the Yorokobi SLD line. In contrast, the silver Damascus pattern pops off strongly over teh dark surface, which reminds me of the now-nearly-impossible-to-obtain "River Jump" Tanryusen by Tsukasa Hinoura. I would assume that these knives actually undergone similar process, where the more reactive metal in the Damascus is etched away, leaving the high nickel metal protruding out above the surface, which allows them to be polished after a darker layer of oxidation formed during the heat treating. As these black crust are quite darker and thicker than the typical Kurouchi finish, additional etching are likely done after the polishing to further increase the contrast.

The cutting performance is there to match the complicated finishing process, although it can be hard to believe something this thick will actually cut well. The secret is a combination of very wide bevel and a classic concave grind done on rotary stone wheel. These two techniques helps bringing down the thickness of the knife very well, so the geometry behind the edge is pretty thin.

Being a semi-stainless tool steel, the SLD/D2 offers an excellent edge that is fine and bity, also a decent toughness and good edge retention that surpass most common stainless steel. It does require some care to stay shiny, but it is one of the more rust resistant semi-stainless steel thanks to a 13% chromium content. With the help of the weight, there aren't much resistance perceivable even when cutting through dense roots like potato or carrot.

This kind of "Heavy Blade with a Fine Edge" approach was seen on some of the Tosa knives like the Kurokuma Line, but compare with a low sabre grind, the high concave grind on these blade have way less resistance and wedging on dense food, the downside is, it can create some stickiness on the wide bevel. However, as the heavy blade carries quite a lot of inertia, it can push through the drag on the bevel regardlessly and allows this to be one of the few knives in our collection that can cut through potato with just gravity.

The thickened spine above the heel suggests this line is indeed forged out, and both the finishing and grind oif the wide bevel is pretty labour intensive. These factors bring up the price of this line up to a rather high point. If you are an enjoyer of popping through vegetables quickly with a dense blade, my justification for you is that this SLD line is the closest thing you can get to Guts' Drangon Slayer in Berserk.

Pros Cons
  • Workhorse grind
  • Great artistic
  • Excellent performance
  • Heavy
  • High budget
Care Instruction
  1. Don't cut hard things! Japanese knives are brittle so bone hacking is a NO NO!
  2. Wash with neutral detergent after use, and wipe dry;
  3. Please don't wash knife with dishwasher, it will damage the wood handle;
  4. Be careful not to leave the knife close to a heat source for a long time;
  5. It is a lot more dangerous to cut with a blunt knife than a sharp knife!
  6. It is best to sharpen a Japanese knife regularly on a waterstone.
  7. Semi-stainless steel won't rust easily but may still patina

Nigara

Hirosaki sword and knife artisan

Nigara (二唐刃物鍛造所) is a forge in Hirosaki, Aomori. Go Yoshizawa (吉澤剛) is its president and signs as the eighth generation; his father, Toshiju Yoshizawa (吉澤俊寿), the seventh generation, is chairman.

Nigara dates its line to 1803, when the family began as gunsmiths in the service of the Tsugaru domain, and it made Japanese swords for generations. In the Edo period the domain took it on as its weapons works, and it made even cannon and warships. After the Second World War the forge turned from military swords to farm tools and kitchen knives; in those years it made knives in winter and sold them in summer.

In the early Showa era a Nigara smith whose sword name was Kunitoshi (国俊) studied under Dr Kotaro Honda, director of Tohoku University's metals research institute. Nigara's company history says he excelled at sword making. He was recognised as a holder of an intangible cultural property of Aomori Prefecture and passed his skill on to the seventh generation. The sixth generation had no son, so Toshiju, a grandson through a daughter's line, joined as heir. The present company dates from 1949, and besides knives it does welding and steel construction work, with a welding department since 1963. Nigara showed at Maison et Objet in Paris in 2011 and at Ambiente in Frankfurt in 2013.

We have visited Nigara several times, once for a few days of hands-on training at the forge.

The Anmon Damascus knives we list come in SG2 as gyuto, kiritsuke gyuto, bunka, santoku, nakiri, petty and sujihiki, and as single-bevel yanagiba and takobiki in Blue 2 and Ginsan. SG2 tsuchime knives, kurouchi or matt migaki, cover gyuto, petty, santoku, nakiri, bunka and sujihiki, plus a double-bevel honesuki and a butcher. We also list VG10 Damascus tsuchime, Ginsan Kurozome Damascus and Aogami Super tsuchime knives, and an SPG STRIX tsuchime Damascus nakiri. The honyaki are Blue 2 with shaped hamon, as yanagiba, kiritsuke yanagiba and sakimaru, and a White 1 kiritsuke yanagiba.

“An Aomori knife company whose family made Japanese swords for generations, with an Anmon line of Damascus knives.”

Est. 1949 | 昭和24年
Known for Glamorous and innovative knife design, inherited forging skills.
Website nigaraknives.com Read more about Nigara

Nigara · Aomori

Knife details

Frequently asked questions

Gyuto or santoku: which should I choose?

Both are all-purpose Japanese knives, and for most home cooks either will handle the bulk of daily prep. The choice comes down to length, blade shape, and how you like to cut.

A gyuto is the Japanese chef's knife, with a gently curved edge that lets you rock and slide through cuts as well as chop. Tojiro's guide to Western knife shapes gives 150 to 210mm as the household size for a gyuto and up to 360mm for professional use. The extra length and pointed tip give you reach and versatility, from proteins to large produce.

Tojiro's guide to Japanese knife shapes gives 165 to 170mm as the household size for a santoku, which has a flatter profile and a rounded sheep's-foot tip. It rewards a straight up-and-down push cut, feels nimble in smaller hands or tight kitchens, and is the classic Japanese household knife.

Rule of thumb: choose a gyuto if you want one do-everything knife with more reach, or a santoku if you prefer a compact, easy-to-control blade. Plenty of our customers end up owning both.

What is a gyuto knife used for?

The gyuto (牛刀) is a chef's knife for all kinds of cooking, and it is basically double-bevel. A knife maker's guide says it came to Japan in the Meiji era with the culture of eating beef, which gave it its name, but it does not cut only meat.

A Japanese dictionary describes the gyuto as slimmer than a santoku, with a pointed tip, used widely for meat, fish and vegetables.

What gyuto length should I choose?

A knife maker's guide lists 150 to 210 mm, double-bevel, for home use, and 180 to 360 mm, single- or double-bevel, for professional kitchens.

We suggest starting with a 210 mm gyuto for a home kitchen, and stepping up to 240 mm if you regularly cut large pieces and have the board for it.

240mm vs 210mm gyuto: which size should I choose?

Get the 210mm. We only point people to a 240mm when they have about 45cm of usable board, cook in volume, and regularly break down big roasts or whole fish.

On the gyutos we've measured for our product pages, the extra length is real. As of October 2026, the 210mm gyutos we list have a median edge of 213mm from heel to tip, across the 111 we have measured; the 240mm ones have a median of 240mm, across 100. The 240s are also heavier, 212g against 175g at the median, and a touch taller at the heel, 50mm against 48mm.

That length buys you a longer stroke. A 240 goes through a big piece of meat in one or two pulls and moves a board of chopped vegetables with less shuffling. It costs you board space and control. On a small board the tip hangs off the edge, and fine work like herbs and shallots feels like more knife than the job needs.

Japanese or German kitchen knives: which should I buy?

Our advice: choose a Japanese knife if you want the keenest edge and do not mind caring for a harder blade, and a German knife if you want a tougher, more forgiving knife you can hone casually and use for heavy prep. On two Japanese knife steels, the steel makers' own figures start at 60 HRC: Takefu Special Steel rates VG10 at 60 HRC or more, and Proterial lists the hardening hardness of Aogami 2 (Blue 2) as over 60 HRC.

Our care advice for a Japanese knife: keep it off bone, frozen food and very hard squash, and use a wooden or plastic board.

What is the flat spot on a knife, and is it the same as the "sweet spot"?

The flat spot is the straight run of edge from the heel towards the middle, the part that meets the board along its length. At our counter we call it the sweet spot; elsewhere "sweet spot" often means the balance point, so ask which one someone means.

Past the flat, the edge curves up towards the tip (the belly), which suits a swinging or pulling stroke. Sharpeners also say "flat spot" for a worn patch of edge, so when you mean the shape, "the flat part of the edge" is clearer.

Is SLD the same steel as SKD11 and D2?

Close. Proterial, which makes SLD, lists AISI D2, DIN X153CrMoV12 and JIS SKD11 as its equivalent standards, while its own typical figures include 12% chromium and 1.5% carbon.

Proterial makes SLD as a cold work die steel with high abrasion resistance, for uses such as cold press dies, shear blades and gauges.

How old is Nigara, and did it make swords?

The Nigara family line began in 1803, when the family served the Tsugaru domain as gunsmiths. For generations afterwards it made Japanese swords.

After the Second World War, the forge turned to blades for everyday life, including farm tools and kitchen knives.

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