Tsunehisa AS Kurouchi Tsuchime Petty 150mm

A petty knife is a small Japanese utility knife, typically with a blade between 120mm and 180mm, designed for precision tasks like peeling, trimming, and slicing fruits and vegetables. You need one when your main chef’s knife feels too large for detail work, think deveining shrimp, cutting garnishes, or any in-hand peeling where a bigger blade gets in the way. Its slightly longer and slimmer profile than a Western paring knife gives you more control for intricate cuts without sacrificing the nimble feel you want for small jobs. If you regularly find yourself reaching for a smaller blade for finishing work, a petty fills that gap cleanly.

A petty is not a replacement for a gyuto or santoku. It lacks the blade length and belly for efficient chopping, rocking, or breaking down larger proteins. If your work is mostly bulk prep, like dicing onions or slicing roasts, a petty will feel slow and underpowered. It also won’t handle heavy tasks like splitting bones or prying, so treat it as a precision tool, not an all-rounder.

The petty’s role in a Japanese kitchen is as the smaller counterpart to the gyuto, built for tasks where a full-size blade is clumsy. At Knives and Stones, the petty category covers a range of steels including VG10, White#2, Swedish Steel, VG5, SG2, and MV, from makers like Sakai Takayuki, Masamoto Sohonten, Ryusen, Nigara, Hatsukokoro, and Sentan. Most are double-beveled, and the blade length runs from 120mm to 180mm, which is what gives it that balance of reach and precision. For more on how this fits into your knife kit, see the Knives and Stones Education Centre.

Petty knife lengths vary by maker: KAI's guide defines a petty (ペティナイフ) as a small knife with a narrow blade measuring 150 mm or under. Its table gives 90 to 150 mm, and it describes the shape as a smaller gyuto with a pointed tip.

We list petty knives from 70 mm to 165 mm, including lengths above the limit used in KAI's guide.

Yes, carbon steels such as Aogami (Blue) and Shirogami (White) are not stainless steels, so left wet they can spot or rust.

Care is simple once it becomes habit. Wipe the blade as you go, especially after acidic food like citrus, tomato or onion. When you finish, wash it in warm water with a little soap and dry it straight away with a towel. Do not let it air dry, leave it in the sink or the dish rack, or put it in the dishwasher. Store it dry: on a magnetic strip, in a saya or in a block in a dry spot.

If the knife will sit unused for a while, wipe on a thin layer of oil before storing. In our video James shows that mineral oil can stand in for camellia (tsubaki) oil, and he picks one labelled medical grade; we list the Kitchen Knife / Cutting Board Mineral Oil Medical Grade for this. If you find light rust, lift it with a rust eraser and a little water, then dry and oil the blade; we list the CKK and Naniwa rust erasers.

Aogami Super, also called Blue Super, is a knife steel made by Proterial. Proterial describes it as an alloy steel with tungsten, chromium and vanadium, to improve heat-treatment properties and wear resistance. In its Japanese materials, Proterial calls its Aogami (青紙) steels high-carbon steel (高炭素鋼). Its own figures put carbon at 1.40 to 1.50%, tungsten at 2.00 to 2.50%, vanadium at 0.30 to 0.50% and chromium at 0.30 to 0.50%.

Proterial gives it a hardening hardness of 60 HRC or more. The uses it lists for the grade are high quality planes, other tipped tools, kitchen knives and sickles. Proterial's hardening note calls for quenching in water, with oil as the alternative.

With chromium well under the 10.5% the Japan Stainless Steel Association sets for stainless, it is not a stainless steel. Wipe it dry after use, do not leave it wet or in the sink, and do not leave acidic food on it.

Proterial lists its Aogami (Blue) steels as alloy steels in its English steel table and calls them high-carbon steel (高炭素鋼) in its Japanese materials; they are not stainless, so water left sitting on the blade will spot it. Each Aogami grade lists only a little chromium, between 0.20 and 0.50% depending on the grade, and that is not enough to make the steel stainless.

Dry the blade as soon as you finish cooking and after washing, and store it somewhere dry. Lift any rust early.

Will a carbon steel knife rust? covers rust removal and everyday care.

The difference is in Proterial's own figures: Aogami Super has 1.40 to 1.50% carbon, 2.00 to 2.50% tungsten, 0.30 to 0.50% chromium and 0.30 to 0.50% vanadium, against Aogami 2 (Blue 2) at 1.05 to 1.15% carbon, 1.00 to 1.50% tungsten and 0.20 to 0.50% chromium.

Proterial describes both as alloy steels with tungsten and chromium to improve heat-treatment properties and wear resistance, and also names vanadium for Aogami Super. In its Japanese materials, Proterial calls its Aogami (青紙) steels high-carbon steel (高炭素鋼). Both pages list hardening hardness over 60 HRC, and Proterial lists Aogami Super for high-quality planes, other tipped tools, kitchen knives and sickles.

Tsunehisa (恒久) means permanence. Shibata Knives describes Tsunehisa as its original brand, and says it selects knives that will have a long life, inspecting each one before delivery. Its own words are that it delivers knives worthy of a permanent position in your home.

The brand is built on traditional Japanese forging techniques with modern materials, and Shibata Knives offers after-sales maintenance and sharpening for the line.

Tsunehisa is a brand, not a single smith or a workshop. Shibata Knives describes it as an original brand of the company, run by Takayuki Shibata, and Shibata Knives does not name the workshop that makes each line. The company inherits traditional Japanese forging techniques with modern materials, and experienced staff inspect each knife before it is delivered.

What stands behind each Tsunehisa knife is that selection and inspection, and the company offers after-sales maintenance and sharpening for the line.