Masamoto Sohonten Honyaki (Blue 2, 玉青鋼) Yanagiba 270 mm

A yanagiba is a single-bevel knife designed specifically for slicing sashimi and raw fish into flawless, clean cuts without crushing the delicate flesh.

This tool is defined by its long, slender profile and single-bevel geometry, which allows for the precision required in sushi preparation. K&S offers yanagiba in steels such as White #2, Blue #2, and Inox. For a practical starting point, the Hatsukokoro x Myojin Shirasagi White 2 Left Handed Yanagiba 210mm is available at a mid-range price, offering a standard entry size. Professionals or those seeking larger blades can look at the Nigara Anmon Blue 2 'Nejiri' Twist Bar Damascus Yanagiba 270mm at the premium end, which provides the length needed for larger fish fillets.

Yes, carbon steels such as Aogami (Blue) and Shirogami (White) react with food, moisture, and acids, so left wet they can spot or rust. With normal use they develop a grey, blue and brown patina, and that patina is expected on a carbon knife rather than damage.

Aogami has only a little chromium, far below what a stainless steel needs, so water left sitting on the blade will spot it. A patina is a stable oxide layer that slows rust down; orange or red specks are rust.

Care is simple once it becomes habit:

• Wipe the blade as you go, especially after onion, citrus or tomato.
• When you finish, wash it in warm water with a little soap and dry it straight away with a towel. Don't let it air dry or leave it in the sink or the dish rack, and never put it in the dishwasher.
• Store it dry: on a magnetic strip, in a saya or in a block in a dry spot.
• If it's going to sit unused for a while, wipe on a thin film of food-safe mineral oil before storing it.

If you do find rust, lift light orange spots with a rust eraser and a little water, then dry and oil the blade. We stock the CKK and Naniwa rust erasers, and the Koyo Sunlite Polishing Paste (Blue for Steel) lifts light surface rust or refreshes a finish. Rust on the edge itself comes off the next time you sharpen. Deep pitting needs a professional sharpener. Avoid steel wool and harsh scouring on a polished or kurouchi finish, because they scratch it.

On a stainless-clad knife only the thin line of carbon steel along the edge can rust; the cladding stays clean. A carbon-clad or honyaki blade can rust over its whole face and needs the same care all over.

Carbon steel rewards this small amount of attention with a keener edge and easier sharpening than most stainless.

Blue 2 (Aogami #2) and White 2 (Shirogami #2) are both Hitachi high-carbon steels, but Blue 2 adds chromium and tungsten to White 2’s base, giving it noticeably better edge retention while keeping similar sharpness. The trade-off is that Blue 2 is slightly more abrasion-resistant during sharpening, so it takes a little more time to refine an edge, whereas White 2 is easier to sharpen and can take a finer, more aggressive edge but dulls faster in use.